Learn how to install FibroTech Acoustic Panels. Acoustic panels from FibroTech can be installed on both walls and ceilings – horizontally or vertically, it’s entirely up to you. They can be secured with either screws or adhesive – or both. INSTALLATIONBefore you start installing your acoustic panels, there are a few things to be aware of. Firstly, always store them indoors. It’s essential for the panels to ventilate, allowing air to circulate to prevent moisture absorption. As a significant portion of the material in the panels is wood, they may emit a slight wood odor when brought into your home, like the scent of a new wooden floor. Therefore, it’s recommended to acclimatize the panels well before installation. Place them in the garage or shed for a couple of days, and afterward, the scent will diminish. Assembly with screwsIf you wish to secure your acoustic panels with screws, you will need 15-18 black screws per panel. When framing, the distance should be 60 mm. You screw the screws into the black polyester backing. This way, you won’t see them since the black screws are hidden against the black polyester. Always remember to ensure that the panels are level and perpendicular. Assembly with adhesiveIf you prefer to avoid screws, you also have the option to glue the acoustic panels using FibroTech’s mounting adhesive. In this case, the panels should be spot-glued on the back. This means applying several small amounts of adhesive around the polyester backing. The adhesive adheres with good strength immediately and becomes stronger as it cures. You can use the mounting adhesive on surfaces such as plaster walls, plaster ceilings, brick walls, plastered walls, and more. Ensure that the surface is always dry and clean before applying the adhesive. Also, make sure that the panels are level and perpendicular. If the dimensions of the acoustic panel do not suit your specific purpose, they can easily be adjusted and cut from the back using a fine-toothed saw blade. The panel can be cut crosswise or lengthwise.  The polyester backing can be cut using a box cutter.  If the backing become detached from the rods, reattach it using staples.

Learn how to transform your walls with PaintReady® wall panel kits. Achieving the exclusive look of wall panelling has never been easier, thanksto our range of wall panel kits. Our high quality mouldings are precision cutand mitred to size, then given a generous coating of PaintReady® primer,all ready for fixing to the wall. The flexibility of being able to use different combinations of the four kits means you can find your own personal style. There’s also a handy fixing guide available to download below. • Easy installation• PaintReady® for a faster, smoother finish• Mix and match between kits• Kits available in squares, longer rectangles, and a half wallsolution with Dado rail Our wall panel kits have been designed so you can combine different kits to createyour own unique look. From traditional styles to something more contemporary oreven eccentric, it’s never been easier to get the fashionable panelled room effect.

Learn how to transform turned newels into a clean and modern square newel. Our Re Newel cladding system: Gives the stairway a modern new look Is an ideal way to modernise old structural newels which can be difficult to replace Available in Oak or Pine kits including a matching cap Unique to Richard Burbidge, Pine kits are ideal for painting to match a colour scheme Designed to clad an existing newel up to 90mm Compatible with all stairparts in our range Finished newel size is 112 x 112 x 1500mm  Follow along with our simple video. Happy Renovating!

Learn how to install Richard Burbidge Elements Inset Glass system. Elements inset glass panel system has been designed to suit staircase pitches between 40° & 43°. Components have been independently tested to guarantee conformity to UK building regulations. Follow along with this step-by-step video. Alongside this video, please read full fitting instructions carefully prior to commencing your installation. If you have any queries or need assistance with your installation, please contact our Technical Helpline on 01691 678212. Full fitting instructions can be found here  

A step-by-step guide to fitting wainscot wall cladding, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. Step 1. Calculate amount of cladding required To calculate the amount of cladding required, you must measure the height and width of the area to be clad. Next, determine the installed width of your chosen cladding, remember this will be less than face width due to the overlap at the joints. Divide the area to be clad by the installed width of the cladding, then round up this figure to get the amount of pieces required. Lastly, determine the amount of pieces you will get out of each plank of cladding, when cladding to wainscot height, you may get two or more pieces out of each plank. Divide the amount of pieces required by amount of pieces you will use per plank, this will give you the amount of cladding planks required for your project. At Richard Burbidge, we have a selection of high-quality cladding options to choose from. Select our pine cladding when painting, or white oak cladding for a natural look. For this project we are using DEC6009 which is our 9 x 95 x 2400mm pine tongue and groove cladding.  Step 2. Decide on installation method If your wall is smooth and flat, you can fit cladding directly onto the wall using a strong grab adhesive. If your wall is dusty, use a diluted PVA adhesive beforehand and allow time for it to dry. When working with strong adhesives, ensure to properly ventilate the room and wear a mask. If your wall is uneven you can install battens first to fit the cladding onto. Fit battens around the perimeter of the area to be clad, ensure you use a spirit level when fitting the battens. Then, infill the area with battens, spaced at a maximum of 30cm from centre to centre. If you are fitting your cladding vertically, fit the battens horizontally and vice versa. If an area of your wall is uneven, you'll need to use thin pieces of wood off-cuts behind the battens, to keep the surface flat. Ensure you use a pipe and cable detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. Step 3. Cut cladding to length Take a spirit level and mark the desired height of the cladding onto the wall. Use the width of the cladding to work out where each piece will begin and end, including the overlap at the joint. If there is a considerable overlap, you will need to cut the first and last piece down to balance the end widths. When cutting down the first and last piece, ensure you are cutting the correct side of the cladding so it is still able to join together.   Next, measure your cladding to your desired length and cut each piece with a universal panel saw. Step 4. Add a decorative finish Before fitting your cladding, finish all of the faces and edges. This project can be customised to work with any décor and colour scheme. When working with raw cladding, you can choose to paint, stain, or wax. Make sure to check the instructions of your finishing products.  If you selected pre-finished cladding then you won’t need to add any decorative finishes, and you can skip this step. You can also choose to add a dado rail to the top of the cladding to give a clean seamless finish, ensure to paint or finish to match your cladding prior to installation. Step 5. Fit your cladding   Slot the first piece of cladding into place to ensure the size is correct. Next, apply grab adhesive to the back of the cladding putting a generous amount of adhesive 10cm in from each end and spaced at 30cm intervals. Slot into place, and use a spirit level to ensure it is straight. Then, fit all the remaining cut pieces in the same way. For the last piece, slide it into place from above and don’t apply grab adhesive as it will get onto the wall. Next, seal the gap between the top of the cladding and wall with decorators caulk for a secure fit. If you have chosen to add a decorative dado rail to the top of the cladding, fit by following the same steps as fitting cladding, and seal the gap at the top with decorators caulk.   Step 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!

A step-by-step guide to making and fitting a pine board shelf, using Richard Burbidge pine board and basic woodworking tools and techniques. Step 1. Choose your pine board and brackets Firstly you’ll need to decide the style you’re going for – we recommend our pine board for this project. Our flat sheet pine panels are available in a variety of different sizes and thicknesses, with a board to suit every requirement. View our selection of pine board here. You will also need to select your brackets, which can be found at any hardware store. Opt for metal brackets for an on-trend industrial style, or select timber brackets for a natural and rustic look. For the more advanced DIY enthusiasts, you may opt to create your own timber brackets. You can do this using pine board and a coping saw. Also consider the weight of the items you will be placing on the shelf, you will need to select heavy duty brackets for weighted items. Step 2. Cut to size and add your creative flair to your shelf Depending on the size of pine board you have selected, you may wish to cut your pine board to your desired length. You can do this using a mitre box and saw.  Next, if you wish to decorate your shelving, you can either paint, wax or stain depending on your desired look. For a smooth finish you can sand down your pine board. You can also add a decorative cover around your shelf, you can do this using decorative mouldings. We used DEC6014 for a more put together finish. View our range of decorative mouldings here. These steps are entirely optional and all depend on the final look you are striving for. This project can be customised to work with any décor, in any room. There’s an endless list of ways that you could choose to add your own creative flair. Step 3. Decide where to place your shelves Next, consider where you will be placing your shelves. Ensure you use a pipe and cable detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. You must also consider the type of wall you have. When fixing to a masonry wall you will need a masonry drill and wall plugs. If fixing to a stud wall, use a stud detector to locate the vertical timber studs, you will not require wall plugs with a stud wall. Ensure that you wear safety glasses and gloves when drilling. Step 4. Fit brackets to wall We recommend fitting the brackets to the wall first. Use a spirit level to make sure your bracket is straight, mark the holes onto the wall with a pencil, and then drill into the wall. Fit wall plugs into the drilled holes if you have masonry walls. Then, fit the bracket into the drilled holes by using screws and a screw driver. Repeat this process for the other bracket, again using a spirit level to ensure the brackets are perfectly aligned. Step 5. Fit board to brackets Next, hold up your pine board onto your brackets to determine where the bracket holes will be on your pine board. Take a pencil and mark these holes. Remove the pine board, and drill pilot holes into the shelf, ensuring you don’t drill through the board. Lastly, attach the board with screws and your shelf should be up and ready! Step 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!