24 Primed Pine Scotia Mouldings 21 x 21 x 2400mm

A step-by-step guide to transforming your plain doors into a classic statement piece, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding. Firstly you’ll need to decide on the style you’re going for – we recommend our decorative panel mouldings for this project. Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality and can totally transform the look or character of a whole room. For a Victorian style select our DEC6027 moulding, or for a contemporary look we recommend the DEC6025 moulding. 2. Determine the dimensions and placement of your chosen mouldings. On a piece of paper, draw out your door with dimensions, and then map out where you want to place the mouldings. Make sure to include accurate measurements to ensure the mouldings fit together allowing for a symmetrical design. Then, map out your design onto the door with a pencil and tape measure. Use a spirit level to ensure the design is aligned and straight. 3. Cut the moulding to desired length. Cut each piece to the required length, the moulding needs to be mitred (trimmed on a 45 degree angle). To do this you can use a mitre box and hand saw, or a power mitre saw. Make sure to stick to the measurements you have calculated from step 2. If you are not confident with the saw, leave an additional few mm as a cautionary measure, you can always make another small cut if required. To finish, very lightly sand the ends of your Richard Burbidge mouldings with sandpaper. 4. Apply moulding to door Apply a sparing amount of your favourite wood glue to the moulding, then line up to the marks you have drawn onto the door, ensuring that the positioning is accurate. Once the glue has dried, hammer in finishing nails, start from the centre and work your way to either end. Repeat this process to apply all of the mouldings. 5. Add the finishing touches. Once all of the mouldings are applied and your design is complete, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks or holes prior to painting. Lastly, paint your moulding and door to match. Be sure to read the paint instructions as you may need to prime the surface before painting. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!          

A step-by-step guide to fitting architrave to a door surround, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. In this guide we take you through the steps of fitting pine or primed MDF architrave, it is not recommended for pre-finished architrave. View our full range of architrave mouldings. 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge MDF Architrave moulding Firstly you’ll need to decide the style you’re going for – we recommend our ogee, torus, or chamfered architrave mouldings for this project. Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality and can totally transform the look and character of a whole room.  2. Map out the moulding placement onto your door casing Use a pipe detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. The architrave will need to be set back slightly from the door frame. Use a tape measure to draw a mark 6mm from the inner edge of the door casing, across the top and down both sides. Then, use a spirit level to join the marks together, giving you three lines in which the architrave will be aligned. 3. Cut the top architrave to length and apply to the door Measure the line you have drawn on the top of the door, mark this on the inner edge of the architrave and leave enough room on either end to allow for the mitred cuts. Use a hand saw and mitre box to cut the architrave at a 45 degree angle, ensuring the outer edge is longer than the inner edge. Lightly sand the ends until they are smooth. Apply grab adhesive to the back of the architrave, and fit the architrave into position on the 6mm line above the door, both mitred inside corners should align with the line you have drawn. Once the adhesive has set, hammer in lost head nails, start from the centre and work your way to either end.  4. Cut the side architrave to length and apply to the door Next, repeat the process from step 3 to both of the side pieces of the architrave. Ensure that you mitre the top pieces of the architraves in opposite directions, and the bottom of the architrave is cut straight to allow for a precise fit. Before applying to the door casing, temporarily hold into place to ensure the fit is exact. Then secure into place following the steps detailed on step 3. 5. Add the finishing touches Once the architrave is applied, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks, or holes prior to finishing. You have many different options when finishing pine architrave, you can stain for a traditional look, paint for a contemporary finish, or choose to retain the original look of raw pine. These intricate details are where you can make the skirting your own, and tie in with your chosen decor. If you decide to stain or leave as it is, we recommend sealing the surface with a varnish or oil. For primed MDF architraves we recommend painting. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with your DIY skills and decorative finishes. Upload a picture of your completed moulding project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also share your images on our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see your beautiful moulding corners! For more in-depth assistance and product recommendations, explore our FAQ section or contact our customer support. For more DIY projects and inspiration, visit our how-to guides.    

A step-by-step guide to fitting skirting board, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Firstly you’ll need to decide the style you’re going for – we recommend our ogee, torus or chamfered skirting mouldings for this project. For a traditional style select our torus skirting, or for a contemporary look we recommend chamfered skirting. In this guide we take you through the steps of fitting pine skirting or primed MDF, it is not recommended for pre-finished skirting. View our full range of flooring mouldings here. 2. Where to start We recommend starting from the left-hand side of the door and working your way around the room anti-clockwise, dealing with each corner in turn. Next we must know how to cut the skirting for external and internal corners. We recommend a mitre cut for external corners, and a scribed joint for internal corners as not all walls are at a perfect 90-degree angle. 3. Cutting the moulding for an external corner – mitred Measure the distance to the next corner and mark onto the back of the skirting, and the intended direction of the mitre cut. Next, secure the skirting front facing into the mitre box. Using a panel saw make a 45-degree angle mitre cut in the marked direction. Secure the adjoining skirting board into the mitre box and make a mitre cut in the opposite direction, sand both mitred ends until smooth. Hold both mitred ends together ensuring they fit properly. If the fit isn’t exact you can use a block plane to shave down the ends to achieve a better fit. 4. Cutting the moulding for an internal corner – scribed joint First, take one of the 2 pieces that will form the internal corner and cut to size with a straight cut, so the end is flush to the wall. Then place this piece at a 90-degree angle onto the face of the second piece of skirting, and draw around the profile onto the face of the piece you will be cutting. Using a coping saw carefully saw around the profile mark you have just drawn, to create a scribed joint. Position both skirting boards together in the internal corner, ensuring that the scribed joint fits into the profile of the skirting. If the fit isn’t exact, lightly sand down the end to achieve a better fit. Remember to make the cut at the other end of the skirting before fitting them to the wall. 5. Securing the moulding to the wall The preferred option when securing the skirting is adhesive, as it allows for a clean and professional finish. If your wall isn’t completely straight you may want to use another applying method alongside the adhesive. Starting from the left-hand side of the door, apply grab adhesive to the back of the skirting and apply PVA to any external mitres, and carefully apply to the wall. If using an additional applying method, use a pipe detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. If fixing to a stud wall, use a stud detector to locate the vertical timber studs, hammer lost head nails through the skirting into the timber studs. If fixing to a masonry wall use a masonry drill, making sure to countersink the screw holes so that the screws are hidden. Use flexible decorators caulk to fill the gap between the top of the skirting and wall, wipe any excess with a damp cloth to smooth the surface. 6. Add the finishing touches Once the skirting is applied, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks, or holes prior to finishing. You have many different options when finishing pine skirting, you can stain for a traditional look, paint for a contemporary finish, or choose to retain the original look of raw pine. These little finishing touches are where you can make the skirting your own, and tie in with your chosen decor. If you decide to stain or leave as it is, we recommend sealing the surface with a varnish or oil. For primed MDF skirting we recommend painting. 7. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!  

An easy-to-follow guide to fitting scotia beading, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and simple tools and techniques. The nature of wooden flooring and laminate flooring means that you'll need to leave a gap around the edge of the room as you lay it. This is because these types of flooring naturally expand and contract, so you need to leave some space around the skirting boards. This gap can sometimes be unsightly, which is why adding scotia beading is a popular DIY trick. Scotia is a decorative moulding that covers any visible gaps without removing the skirting board. You can choose a scotia style that suits the look of your room, matching or contrasting with the flooring. Making sure scotia beading is installed correctly is a relatively simple procedure - here's our guide: 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Firstly you’ll need to decide the style of floor moulding you’re going for. At Richard Burbidge we offer a wide range of scotia bead styles, from decorative to minimalist. Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality, so will perform the key function and also totally transform the look and character of a whole room for a professional-looking finish. Top tip: Select a scotia style and colour that matches the skirting boards for a cohesive look. Wondering 'how much scotia beading do I need'? Measure the perimeter of your room to determine the total length of scotia required, then add another 10-20% as a precautionary measure for wastage. 2. How to cut Scotia beading You'll need to use a mitre joint to connect lengths of scotia beading together. Of course, safety wear (protective gloves, knee pads, eye goggles etc) are recommended for use during any work. Cut the beading at a 45-degree angle to guarantee a seamless finish for the gap-filling boards. To cut corners, measure the distance between the two corners and mark this plus the direction of the cut onto the back of the scotia with a pencil. For the next step, you'll need a mitre box, sandpaper and a mitre saw. Cut at the 45-degree angle in the direction of the mark. Cut into the scotia to make a mitre cut in the opposite direction, and sand down the ends until completely smooth. Check that both ends fit together - you might need to sand a bit more or use a block pane to make sure the fit is flush. 3. How to install Scotia beading  For places where the scotia is being fitted in a place where the end will be left open (for example near a door or archway), some homeowners opt to attach a return piece to the end for a neater finish and secure surface. To install a scotia return, you'll need to mitre cut the end that's being left 'exposed', then cut into another piece of scotia in the opposite direction to the first cut. Cut the second piece to size and put them together to make sure they fit together. You can then use PVA to fit the return onto the end and secure it against the wall. Make sure to follow your chosen adhesive's instructions. 4. Securing the moulding to the wall When it comes to how to fit scotia beading, you have a few options. Some installers choose to use nails which provides a reliable hold. Others choose adhesive to help avoid unsightly nail holes for a more professional-looking finish. To fit scotia with nails, first you'll need to secure the beading in place. Use nails every 30cm along the scotia, being careful not to hammer any nails into the floor. Use either a nail gun or a hammer for precision. As a precautionary measure, you might want to use a pipe and cable detector to avoid hitting any electric cables or hidden pipes. For adhesive fitting, use a grab adhesive along the back of the scotia, and carefully stick to the wall (avoiding the flooring!). For external mitres, apply PVA. You can use flexible decorators caulk or decorator's filler to fill any gaps between the scotia and the skirting board. Wipe any excess with a damp cloth to smooth the surface to create a potentially unnoticeable room feature that brings the design together. 5. Add the finishing touches Once the scotia beading is correctly applied, you can go over it with decorators caulk to patch up any gaps. If you have selected pine scotia (or another varnishable wood), there are many different finishing options. You might consider a wood stain for a traditional look, paint for a contemporary finish, or choose to retain the original look of raw pine. The finish you choose will help enhance the room's décor and match your existing skirting. If you decide to stain the scotia or leave as it is, we recommend sealing the surface with an oil or varnish. Safety wear (such as gloves and a mask) is always recommended for varnishing in enclosed spaces. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge products. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!