Shaker Style Wall Panel Kit - 2400mm x 60mm x 9mm

A step-by-step guide to fitting wainscot wall cladding, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. Step 1. Calculate amount of cladding required To calculate the amount of cladding required, you must measure the height and width of the area to be clad. Next, determine the installed width of your chosen cladding, remember this will be less than face width due to the overlap at the joints. Divide the area to be clad by the installed width of the cladding, then round up this figure to get the amount of pieces required. Lastly, determine the amount of pieces you will get out of each plank of cladding, when cladding to wainscot height, you may get two or more pieces out of each plank. Divide the amount of pieces required by amount of pieces you will use per plank, this will give you the amount of cladding planks required for your project. At Richard Burbidge, we have a selection of high-quality cladding options to choose from. Select our pine cladding when painting, or white oak cladding for a natural look. For this project we are using DEC6009 which is our 9 x 95 x 2400mm pine tongue and groove cladding.  Step 2. Decide on installation method If your wall is smooth and flat, you can fit cladding directly onto the wall using a strong grab adhesive. If your wall is dusty, use a diluted PVA adhesive beforehand and allow time for it to dry. When working with strong adhesives, ensure to properly ventilate the room and wear a mask. If your wall is uneven you can install battens first to fit the cladding onto. Fit battens around the perimeter of the area to be clad, ensure you use a spirit level when fitting the battens. Then, infill the area with battens, spaced at a maximum of 30cm from centre to centre. If you are fitting your cladding vertically, fit the battens horizontally and vice versa. If an area of your wall is uneven, you'll need to use thin pieces of wood off-cuts behind the battens, to keep the surface flat. Ensure you use a pipe and cable detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. Step 3. Cut cladding to length Take a spirit level and mark the desired height of the cladding onto the wall. Use the width of the cladding to work out where each piece will begin and end, including the overlap at the joint. If there is a considerable overlap, you will need to cut the first and last piece down to balance the end widths. When cutting down the first and last piece, ensure you are cutting the correct side of the cladding so it is still able to join together.   Next, measure your cladding to your desired length and cut each piece with a universal panel saw. Step 4. Add a decorative finish Before fitting your cladding, finish all of the faces and edges. This project can be customised to work with any décor and colour scheme. When working with raw cladding, you can choose to paint, stain, or wax. Make sure to check the instructions of your finishing products.  If you selected pre-finished cladding then you won’t need to add any decorative finishes, and you can skip this step. You can also choose to add a dado rail to the top of the cladding to give a clean seamless finish, ensure to paint or finish to match your cladding prior to installation. Step 5. Fit your cladding   Slot the first piece of cladding into place to ensure the size is correct. Next, apply grab adhesive to the back of the cladding putting a generous amount of adhesive 10cm in from each end and spaced at 30cm intervals. Slot into place, and use a spirit level to ensure it is straight. Then, fit all the remaining cut pieces in the same way. For the last piece, slide it into place from above and don’t apply grab adhesive as it will get onto the wall. Next, seal the gap between the top of the cladding and wall with decorators caulk for a secure fit. If you have chosen to add a decorative dado rail to the top of the cladding, fit by following the same steps as fitting cladding, and seal the gap at the top with decorators caulk.   Step 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!

A step-by-step guide to creating a feature wall within your home, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. There are hundreds of different designs you can create with wall panelling, in this guide we are going to be showing you how to install the classic but contemporary square panel design that goes from floor to ceiling, to create a feature wall. 1. Planning and measuring Planning is the most time consuming, but also the most important step of the whole process. Firstly, you will need to measure the walls every length and width, making a note of any fittings and fixtures you will need to avoid. Draw your design with the measurements on some paper, making sure to plan an equal gap horizontally and vertically. The next step is to transfer your measurements and plan to the wall, using a pencil, tape measure and laser level, mark where each panel piece will be, while bearing in mind the width of the panel. We also recommend removing skirting and architrave on the feature wall to achieve a professional finish.  2. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality and can totally transform the look and character of a whole room. Our stripwood range has a vast selection of panel sizes to choose from. For this project we are using STW6027 which is a 12 x 96 x 2400mm pine panel that creates the classic square feature wall you will have seen everywhere on Pinterest and Instagram! 3. Cut the panels to length The next step is to cut your panels to length. Our stripwood mouldings are 2400mm in length which is the average height of most rooms, so you won’t need to cut the mouldings that are being placed vertically. Using a saw and mitre box at a 90 degree angle, carefully cut the panels that will be horizontally placed according to the measurements you noted from step 1. Repeat this process to all of the horizontal panels, then lightly sand the ends until smooth. If your wall is not 2400mm in length then you will need to cut the moulding according to your walls measurements using this same method. 4. Apply panels to the wall When applying the panels to the wall start with the vertical panels, then the horizontal panels. To apply the panels to the wall we recommend nails and adhesive for that extra security and hold. Place your panel onto the wall where you marked out in step 1, use a laser level to ensure the panel is straight, then apply strong hold adhesive to the back and apply to the wall, next use a nail gun to fully secure the panel to the wall. Repeat this process for all panels. Ensure you use a pipe and cable detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. If you are unsure if it is safe to nail into your wall, opt for a strong adhesive instead.  Once you have applied the panels, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks, or holes, then sand prior to finishing. 5. Add your own creative flare This project can be customised to work with any décor and colour scheme. There are many different ways you can add your own creative flare to this project. You can choose to paint the whole wall one colour, or you can use a few different paint colours, paint dots, stripes or squares, or even draw your own unique design to really make this wall the focal point of your home. There’s an endless list of ways that you could choose to add your own creative flair. We used COAT Paint's Sunday Soul. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!