We're still open as usual. Please get in touch with our team if you need more help.

Advice

Our easy to follow step-by-step guides have been developed to help you achieve stunning results every time.

How To Fit Scotia Beading

A step-by-step guide to fitting scotia beading, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. Wood flooring and laminate flooring require an expansion gap around the perimeter of the room as they naturally expand and contract. Scotia is a decorative moulding used to cover this expansion gap without removing the skirting board. 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Firstly you’ll need to decide the style you’re going for – we offer a wide range of scotia bead styles, from decorative to minimalist. Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality and can totally transform the look and character of a whole room. Top tip: Select a scotia style and colour that matches the skirting board for a cohesive look. Measure the perimeter of your room to determine the total length of scotia required, then add another 10-20% for wastage. 2. Cutting the moulding When joining two ends of scotia beading together, they will need to be cut to a mitre joint, this means cutting at a 45 degree angle for a seamless finish. For internal and external corners measure the distance to the next corner and mark onto the back of the scotia, and the intended direction of the mitre cut. Next, use a mitre box and mitre saw at a 45-degree angle mitre cut in the marked direction. Then cut the adjoining scotia to make a mitre cut in the opposite direction, sand both mitred ends until smooth. Hold both mitred ends together ensuring they fit properly. If the fit isn’t exact you can use a block plane to shave down the ends to achieve a better fit. 3. Fitting a return For installations where the end of the scotia is exposed, such as next to a door, you can fit a return to the exposed end of the scotia for a neater finish. Firstly, make a mitre cut to the exposed end of the scotia. Next, complete a mitre cut on another piece of scotia in the opposite direction to the previous mitre cut, then cut this small piece to size. Ensure it fits into the exposed end of scotia, then apply PVA to the mitre and fit the return onto the scotia and flush to the wall. 4. Securing the moulding to the wall You can opt for nails which offers a more reliable hold, or adhesive which allows for a more clean and professional finish. To fit scotia using nails, secure into position by nailing the scotia to the skirting by spacing one nail every 30cm, ensure you don’t nail the scotia to the floor. To fit scotia using adhesive, apply grab adhesive to the back of the scotia and carefully apply to the wall, ensuring not to get any on your flooring. Apply PVA to any external mitres. Use flexible decorators caulk to fill any gaps between the top of the scotia and skirting, wipe any excess with a damp cloth to smooth the surface. 5. Add the finishing touches Once the scotia is applied, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks, or holes prior to finishing. If you have selected pine scotia, there are many different finishing options, you can stain for a traditional look, paint for a contemporary finish, or choose to retain the original look of raw pine. These little finishing touches are where you can tie in with your chosen décor and match your existing skirting. If you decide to stain or leave as it is, we recommend sealing the surface with a varnish or oil. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!  

READ ADVICE arrow-right
How To Fit Wall Panelling

A step-by-step guide to creating a feature wall within your home, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. There are hundreds of different designs you can create with wall panelling, in this guide we are going to be showing you how to install the classic but contemporary square panel design that goes from floor to ceiling, to create a feature wall. 1. Planning and measuring Planning is the most time consuming, but also the most important step of the whole process. Firstly, you will need to measure the walls every length and width, making a note of any fittings and fixtures you will need to avoid. Draw your design with the measurements on some paper, making sure to plan an equal gap horizontally and vertically. The next step is to transfer your measurements and plan to the wall, using a pencil, tape measure and laser level, mark where each panel piece will be, while bearing in mind the width of the panel. We also recommend removing skirting and architrave on the feature wall to achieve a professional finish. 2. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality and can totally transform the look and character of a whole room. Our stripwood range has a vast selection of panel sizes to choose from. For this project we are using STW6027 which is a 12 x 96 x 2400mm pine panel that creates the classic square feature wall you will have seen everywhere on Pinterest and Instagram! 3. Cut the panels to length The next step is to cut your panels to length. Our stripwood mouldings are 2400mm in length which is the average height of most rooms, so you won’t need to cut the mouldings that are being placed vertically. Using a saw and mitre box at a 90 degree angle, carefully cut the panels that will be horizontally placed according to the measurements you noted from step 1. Repeat this process to all of the horizontal panels, then lightly sand the ends until smooth. If your wall is not 2400mm in length then you will need to cut the moulding according to your walls measurements using this same method. 4. Apply panels to the wall When applying the panels to the wall start with the vertical panels, then the horizontal panels. To apply the panels to the wall we recommend nails and adhesive for that extra security and hold. Place your panel onto the wall where you marked out in step 1, use a laser level to ensure the panel is straight, then apply strong hold adhesive to the back and apply to the wall, next use a nail gun to fully secure the panel to the wall. Repeat this process for all panels. Ensure you use a pipe and cable detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. If you are unsure if it is safe to nail into your wall, opt for a strong adhesive instead.  Once you have applied the panels, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks, or holes, then sand prior to finishing. 5. Add your own creative flare This project can be customised to work with any décor and colour scheme. There are many different ways you can add your own creative flare to this project. You can choose to paint the whole wall one colour, or you can use a few different paint colours, paint dots, stripes or squares, or even draw your own unique design to really make this wall the focal point of your home. There’s an endless list of ways that you could choose to add your own creative flair. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!  

READ ADVICE arrow-right
How To Fit Skirting Board

A step-by-step guide to fitting skirting board, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Firstly you’ll need to decide the style you’re going for – we recommend our ogee, torus or chamfered skirting mouldings for this project. For a traditional style select our torus skirting, or for a contemporary look we recommend chamfered skirting. In this guide we take you through the steps of fitting pine skirting or primed MDF, it is not recommended for pre-finished skirting. 2. Where to start We recommend starting from the left-hand side of the door and working your way around the room anti-clockwise, dealing with each corner in turn. Next we must know how to cut the skirting for external and internal corners. We recommend a mitre cut for external corners, and a scribed joint for internal corners as not all walls are at a perfect 90-degree angle. 3. Cutting the moulding for an external corner – mitred Measure the distance to the next corner and mark onto the back of the skirting, and the intended direction of the mitre cut. Next, secure the skirting front facing into the mitre box. Using a panel saw make a 45-degree angle mitre cut in the marked direction. Secure the adjoining skirting board into the mitre box and make a mitre cut in the opposite direction, sand both mitred ends until smooth. Hold both mitred ends together ensuring they fit properly. If the fit isn’t exact you can use a block plane to shave down the ends to achieve a better fit. 4. Cutting the moulding for an internal corner – scribed joint First, take one of the 2 pieces that will form the internal corner and cut to size with a straight cut, so the end is flush to the wall. Then place this piece at a 90-degree angle onto the face of the second piece of skirting, and draw around the profile onto the face of the piece you will be cutting. Using a coping saw carefully saw around the profile mark you have just drawn, to create a scribed joint. Position both skirting boards together in the internal corner, ensuring that the scribed joint fits into the profile of the skirting. If the fit isn’t exact, lightly sand down the end to achieve a better fit. Remember to make the cut at the other end of the skirting before fitting them to the wall. 5. Securing the moulding to the wall The preferred option when securing the skirting is adhesive, as it allows for a clean and professional finish. If your wall isn’t completely straight you may want to use another applying method alongside the adhesive. Starting from the left-hand side of the door, apply grab adhesive to the back of the skirting and apply PVA to any external mitres, and carefully apply to the wall. If using an additional applying method, use a pipe detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. If fixing to a stud wall, use a stud detector to locate the vertical timber studs, hammer lost head nails through the skirting into the timber studs. If fixing to a masonry wall use a masonry drill, making sure to countersink the screw holes so that the screws are hidden. Use flexible decorators caulk to fill the gap between the top of the skirting and wall, wipe any excess with a damp cloth to smooth the surface. 6. Add the finishing touches Once the skirting is applied, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks, or holes prior to finishing. You have many different options when finishing pine skirting, you can stain for a traditional look, paint for a contemporary finish, or choose to retain the original look of raw pine. These little finishing touches are where you can make the skirting your own, and tie in with your chosen decor. If you decide to stain or leave as it is, we recommend sealing the surface with a varnish or oil. For primed MDF skirting we recommend painting. 7. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!  

READ ADVICE arrow-right
How To Fit Door Architrave

A step-by-step guide to fitting architrave to a door surround, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Firstly you’ll need to decide the style you’re going for – we recommend our ogee, torus, or chamfered architrave mouldings for this project. Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality and can totally transform the look and character of a whole room. In this guide we take you through the steps of fitting pine or primed MDF architrave, it is not recommended for pre-finished architrave. 2. Map out the moulding placement onto your door casing Use a pipe detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. The architrave will need to be set back slightly from the door frame, use a tape measure to draw a mark 6mm from the inner edge of the door casing, across the top and down both sides. Then, use a spirit level to join the marks together, giving you three lines in which the architrave will be aligned. 3. Cut the top architrave to length and apply to the door Measure the line you have drawn on the top of the door, mark this on the inner edge of the architrave and leave enough room on either end to allow for the mitred cuts. Use a hand saw and mitre box to cut the architrave at a 45 degree angle, ensuring the outer edge is longer than the inner edge. Lightly sand the ends until they are smooth. Apply grab adhesive to the back of the architrave, and fit the architrave into position on the 6mm line above the door, both mitred inside corners should align with the line you have drawn. Once the adhesive has set, hammer in lost head nails, start from the centre and work your way to either end.  4. Cut the side architrave to length and apply to the door Next, repeat the process from step 3 to both of the side pieces of architrave. Ensure that you mitre the top pieces of the architraves in opposite directions, and the bottom of the architrave is cut straight to allow for a precise fit. Before applying to the door casing, temporarily hold into place to ensure the fit is exact. Then secure into place following the steps detailed on step 3. 5. Add the finishing touches Once the architrave is applied, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks, or holes prior to finishing. You have many different options when finishing pine architrave, you can stain for a traditional look, paint for a contemporary finish, or choose to retain the original look of raw pine. These little finishing touches are where you can make the skirting your own, and tie in with your chosen decor. If you decide to stain or leave as it is, we recommend sealing the surface with a varnish or oil. For primed MDF architrave we recommend painting. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!      

READ ADVICE arrow-right
How To Renovate Plain Doors

A step-by-step guide to transforming your plain doors into a classic statement piece, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding. Firstly you’ll need to decide on the style you’re going for – we recommend our decorative panel mouldings for this project. Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality and can totally transform the look or character of a whole room. For a Victorian style select our DEC6027 moulding, or for a contemporary look we recommend the DEC6025 moulding. 2. Determine the dimensions and placement of your chosen mouldings. On a piece of paper, draw out your door with dimensions, and then map out where you want to place the mouldings. Make sure to include accurate measurements to ensure the mouldings fit together allowing for a symmetrical design. Then, map out your design onto the door with a pencil and tape measure. Use a spirit level to ensure the design is aligned and straight. 3. Cut the moulding to desired length. Cut each piece to the required length, the moulding needs to be mitred (trimmed on a 45 degree angle). To do this you can use a mitre box and hand saw, or a power mitre saw. Make sure to stick to the measurements you have calculated from step 2. If you are not confident with the saw, leave an additional few mm as a cautionary measure, you can always make another small cut if required. To finish, very lightly sand the ends of your Richard Burbidge mouldings with sandpaper. 4. Apply moulding to door Apply a sparing amount of your favourite wood glue to the moulding, then line up to the marks you have drawn onto the door, ensuring that the positioning is accurate. Once the glue has dried, hammer in finishing nails, start from the centre and work your way to either end. Repeat this process to apply all of the mouldings. 5. Add the finishing touches. Once all of the mouldings are applied and your design is complete, use decorators caulk to patch any gaps, cracks or holes prior to painting. Lastly, paint your moulding and door to match. Be sure to read the paint instructions as you may need to prime the surface before painting. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!          

READ ADVICE arrow-right

Search our product catalogue